Carol Pucci

DEAN RUTZ/The Seattle Times
The old Sunshine Mill in downtown The Dalles, Ore., while arguably the ugliest and tallest structure in the city, is finding new life and popularity as a winery and tasting room.

Old Oregon town satisfies a thirst for history

THE DALLES, Ore. — Located along the Oregon Trail that brought 19th-century fur trappers and traders west, The Dalles claims 300 days of sunshine, perfect for the town’s 21st-century pioneers who cater to boaters, kayakers, cyclists and anyone else with a thirst for history.

“In the 1800s, it was a wild and crazy place,” said Mark Powell, the town funeral director who transformed the 1883 former Wasco County Courthouse into Clock Tower Ales, a restaurant and bar with 35 microbrews on tap.

He unlocks a pale-blue door on the second floor, and I follow him up three narrow, wooden ladders to the belfry where he goes twice a week to wind a 127-year-old Seth Thomas clock. From the tower, we look down on the site of a new cruise-ship dock.

With its riverfront location, The Dalles — the name comes from the black volcanic rock pillars wedged into the hills above the river — drew gold miners, ranchers, river workers and merchants who profited from trade and commerce along the waterway and railroad.

A local dance troupe performs “La Danza de la Cabeza de Cochino,” the dance of the pig’s head, on the Plaza Grande in Merida, Mexico.

CAROL PUCCI/Seattle Times

Family time in Merida

MERIDA, Mexico -- A man in a white tank top, black drawstring shorts and flip flops drags a beat-up bike from the front room of an abandoned house on a wide boulevard lined with mansions.

For 30 pesos, less than $3, the rusted, one-speed "Cherry"-brand bike is mine for the next two hours.

I pedal along the Paseo Montejo, passing pastel-colored mansions, once the homes of wealthy plantation owners, now the headquarters for banks, insurance companies and car dealerships.

A group of children plays a game of Twister on the sidewalk. Others join an impromptu art class, dipping their fingers into jars of paint set out on card tables in the street.

CAROL PUCCI/The Seattle Times
A scenic drive around the top of the West Maui Mountains leads to the Nakalele Blowhole.

Offbeat -- and off the beaten path

MAUI, Hawaii -- Sample the cream puffs at a historic Japanese bakery.

Test your driving skills on a one-lane stretch of mountain road that weaves along coastal cliffs.

Buy a pineapple at a roadside stand. Watch the owner slice it with his machete. Then eat it as the juice drips down your chin.

If you're a first-timer on Maui, the guidebooks can help with the official checklist: sunrise at the Haleakala volcano. Snorkeling at Black Rock. Paddle-boarding off the coast in Lahaina.

Been there, done that, or just looking for something new? Pry yourself out of the lounge chair and put together your own mini-adventure. Here are some ideas for exploring off-the-beaten path.

Oregon’s Cannon Beach is about 200 miles south of Seattle on the Oregon Coast. Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach is a monolithic rock adjacent to the beach. TIde pools around the rock are home to many intertidal animals, including starfish and sea anemones. The rock is also a nesting site for many sea birds.

MIKE SIEGEL/Seattle Times

A high time at low tide

CANNON BEACH, Ore. -- If someone were to write a book about the weather in Cannon Beach, it would be part mystery, part thriller, part summer romance.

A fleece vest and scarf were all I needed on a recent brisk afternoon as I sat on the Oregon beach, snacking on fresh crab and white wine.

Twelve hours later, the rain was coming down in slanted sheets. I took cover inside Sleepy Monk Coffee Roasters, where a sign on the door warned against high winds. No one bothered taking off their hats and parkas.

ERIKA SCHULTZ/Seattle Times
A pergola stairway leads to The Undertown, one of the hot spots for live music in Port Townsend, Wash.

Live it up in Port Townsend

PORT TOWNSEND, Wash. -- It's 8:30 on a Friday night, and teenage girls wearing short skirts and flip-flops are rocking out to the Rolling Stones in the Undertown, a basement coffeehouse and wine bar likely used a century ago to store ice and coal.

Mention Port Townsend, on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, and wooden boats and old houses come to mind. This historic waterfront town boasts plenty of both, reminders of the late 1800s, when wealthy businessmen banked on its future as a major Northwest shipping port.

COURTNEY BLETHEN RIFFKIN/Seattle Times
Elandan Gardens was created on an abandoned landfill on the shore of Sinclair Inlet near Bremerton< Wash., on the Kitsap Peninsula.

Classic Kitsap

KITSAP PENINSULA -- Fuel up on a breakfast of quiche made with local duck eggs.

Walk along a boardwalk through forested wetlands.

Meet the artist whose work appears on Costco's smoked-salmon boxes, and the fireman who transformed a city landfill into a waterside bonsai garden.

Before shipyards and shopping malls, farming and logging dominated the central Kitsap Peninsula, an arm of fertile land and maritime communities west of Seattle across Puget Sound.

The pioneer spirit lives on among enterprising locals, drawing inspiration from the past to put a modern s

The Transportation Security Administration demonstrated the new full-body scanner at Sea-Tac Airport in Washington.

Q&A about new full-body scanners may/may not put your mind at ease

The Transportation Security Administration's plan to install new full-body scanners at U.S. airport security checkpoints is raising lots of questions about privacy and health issues.

Add to those the potential for hassles and confusion, especially during the upcoming holidays, when record numbers of families will be flying.

TSA plans to have 450 scanners installed in 50 U.S. airports, both big and small, this year, and 500 more next year, performing what it calls advanced imaging technology.

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