Special to the Washington Post

Hop on the subway to discover L.A. creativity and humanity

This is a story about Underground Los Angeles. Not the underground music scene — the underground art scene. The subway art scene.

Yes, there is a subway in L.A. Even some Angelenos don’t know about it, and most have never used it. But a system of subways and light rail was started in the early 1990s, and it’s steadily expanding.

Depending on where you live, the subway’s an efficient way to get downtown, which has become more of a destination in recent years, what with the Music Center with its plays, concerts, ballets and operas; fine museums; a funky, lively boho arts district; the Frank Gehry-designed Disney Concert Hall; the relatively new Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels. Plus the old attractions: Chinatown, Little Tokyo, Olvera Street’s cheesy but charming Mexican street fair, and such architectural gems as Union Station and the Bradbury Building, featured in “Blade Runner.”

ROBIN SOSLOW/Special to The Washington Post
The Las Cruces Farmers and Crafts Market in New Mexico is a good place to find chili pepper-related foods and decor, such as these ristra wreaths.

Hot, Hot, Hot! From activities to cuisine, Las Cruces welcomes

LAS CRUCES, N.M. — Green chili strips, chili soup, chili lasagna, chili margaritas and chili-tinis pepper the menus. Chili ristras, chili wreaths, chili earrings, chili trail mix, chili brittle and chili chocolate spice up the markets. There’s even the Chile Pepper Institute, where I learn which pepper recently snatched the “world’s hottest” title from the 1,001,304 SHU (Scoville heat unit) Bhut Jolokia.

Cravings for something spicy are amply satisfied in Las Cruces.

Chili peppers, the fruits of plants from the genus Capsicum, were brought to this part of southern New Mexico in the late 1500s by Spanish colonial expeditions. In Spain, chilies had become a culinary hit after explorers carried them back from the Caribbean. It’s understandable, given their addictive qualities.

MARY ANN ANDERSON/The Washington Post
Okefenokee Swamp’s most famous inhabitant silently waits. Once an endangered species in the area, the alligator has made a comeback, now numbering about 20,000 to 22,000.

All atremble with wonder in the Okefenokee Swamp

It’s a chilly spring day, with lots of wind, so I was pretty startled when Okefenokee Adventures guide Joey Griffin commanded me to take off my shoes and climb out of his pontoon boat.

But you just don’t say no to a big, burly swamper. So here I am, standing on a soggy, boggy mound of peat rising out of the black water all around us.

“Now bounce up and down,” Griffin orders.

“Are you serious?” I ask.

“Jump!” he instructs, hiding a bemused smile.

Feeling a bit of trepidation, I start jumping straight up and down, like a Masai warrior. Then something weirdly wonderful happens: The ground quivers, jellylike, beneath my freezing bare feet.

“Whoa!” I laugh. “This is fun!”

“There you have it.” Griffin nods knowingly. “The trembling earth.”

KATE SIBER/The Washington Post
An ancestral Puebloan pictograph adorns a sandstone cliff in Slickhorn Canyon in southeastern Utah’s Cedar Mesa.

The secrets of southeastern Utah's Cedar Mesa

Well after nightfall on a recent Friday, I steered my sedan through a barren patch of desert in southeastern Utah. Outside the windows, juniper, pinon and sage jerked in the wind. No headlights lit the road except for my tenuous beams, a feeble match for the sea of darkness.

I’d just inched up a mess of nerve-fraying switchbacks on Highway 261, where I’d peered past an unguarded edge into a vertiginous gulf of night below. Now the frozen mud ruts of a county road scraped the bottom of my car, and quite honestly, I didn’t know precisely where I was. At that moment, I questioned the wisdom of my weekend mission: camping and finding ruins on Utah’s Cedar Mesa. It was 11 p.m., about 20 degrees and very windy — hardly ideal weather for camping.

Adding a few extra vegetables makes Vegetable-Stuffed Shells more healthful.

KATHERINE FREY/The Washington Post

Turn up the health value of pasta with extra veggies

Home-style Italian American dishes such as lasagna and stuffed shells endure for good reason: They are filling family favorites. A little tinkering and some added vegetables make these dishes more healthful without ruining the qualities that make them so popular.

In this recipe, a big pan of carrots, zucchini and onions serves a dual purpose: Half of the mixture becomes the base of the pasta sauce, and half is added to the filling for the stuffed shells.

As the Cold War gets colder, interest heats up; old Minutemen weapons of mass attraction for tourists

In the early 1980s, when I was a fifth-grader at Jefferson Elementary School, in a small town in Minnesota, our teacher, Mr. Odegaard, took us down a little-used stairway, through a door and into a tunnel beneath our school. He flicked on the lights. The sound of our shuffling feet echoed down a long, dark corridor.

“The walls down here are solid concrete,” I remember him telling us, “and you need three feet to stop gamma rays. When the Russians launch their missiles, this is where I’m coming!”

Another day around that same time, I was sitting outside with my best friend Jon discussing this when he told me that after the missiles were launched, his dad was going to drive them to ground zero, because he didn’t want them to die slow, painful deaths. I had no idea what my family’s plans were.

Such were the dilemmas of the Cold War, which seems so strange and distant now. I was thinking about this recently when I stumbled across the mention of an abandoned missile facility south of Minneapolis, where I live. So I drove for an hour and finally turned down a dirt road that rolled through cornfields until it came up onto a high, wide hill, where I could see for miles in either direction. There, sequestered behind a high barbed-wire fence, was a series of low concrete buildings, with doors hanging off their hinges.

KATHERINE FREY/The Washington Post
A fusion of Japanese, Italian and French cooking traditions helps create a creamy rice pudding.

Japanese, Italian, French fusion: Proof’s in the pudding

Rice pudding is a favorite of mine — and most everybody else.

I’ve spent years tinkering with recipes, trying to produce one that could compete with the rice pudding my dad used to bring home from the local deli. I’ve tried different techniques and combinations of ingredients. Early on, I jettisoned the over-the-top richness of heavy cream, but I wanted to retain a creaminess and thick consistency. I needed the right rice.

Mount Vernon photo by Russ Flint
George Washington’s gristmill and delivery, three miles west of the main estate in Mount Vernon, is now open for the tourist season.

Mount Vernon revives George Washington’s whiskey production

WASHINGTON — In the fall of 1799, George Washington wrote to his nephew: “Two hundred gallons of Whiskey will be ready this day for your call, and the sooner it is taken the better, as the demand for this article (in these parts) is brisk.”

The whiskey Washington spoke of was produced in his own distillery, at Mount Vernon, Va., and the popularity of the spirit (in these parts) remains. Mount Vernon historians-turned-distillers have been busy making Washington’s unaged rye whiskey, following his recipe and manual methods, since early this month and will put 1,100 bottles up for sale in April.

The Washington Post
Carlsbad, Calif., is a popular destination for novice and expert surfers. Surfing camps offer an introduction for would-be surfers of all ages.

Surf's Up!!! Carlsbad the perfect place to become a Surfer Dude

The monster wave approached. It had to be 20 or 30 feet. Undaunted, I paddled forward. Well, all right, maybe it’s more like 2 or 3 feet. But does size really matter?

I jumped onto the board, turned into the crest and caught it. And for three mind-numbing seconds, I stood up — love handles dancing in the air.

Dude, I’m surfin’.

There are worse places to be in the summer than Carlsbad, Calif. About 35 miles north of San Diego, the beach town has bright sun, good bars and restaurants and oh-so-tasty waves. It doesn’t get much more SoCal than this. The weather is about 75 degrees, the water temperature about 70. If you want to learn to surf, this is the place.

This was an end-of-summer vacation with my wife and two teenagers. A four-day surf camp promised good weather, physical activity and maybe even a remedy for a midlife crisis. Surfing lessons are cheaper than a Mercedes convertible and safer than friending your recently divorced high school flame on Facebook. And it rocks. Just ask Rusty, Keenan or Evan.

Serenity of Alaska's heartland recharges one's batteries

I was outnumbered. Ten Alaskan huskies yelped, jumped and trembled with excitement on a snowy hill 10 miles outside Fairbanks, Alaska. My dog-sled instructor, Leslie Goodwin, sat in the basket of my sled as I poured all my weight onto the foot brake. I couldn’t believe that she trusted me to drive this thing.

“Let’s go!” she said and smiled up at me, amused by my unease. I gingerly slid my foot off the brake. With a jerk, the dogs sprang into a gallop, and I shrieked. But they quickly settled into a rhythmic trot, and the stab of adrenaline soon melted into calm.

We floated through spruce forests and meadows topped by a pale sky. I eased my grip on the handle and watched an unbroken tableau of woods and fields unfurl below us. It was hard to believe that we were just outside Alaska’s second-largest city.

ASTRID RIECKEN/The Washington Post
This slimmed-down recipe for stroganoff-style linguine adjusts the sour cream and leaves out the meat.

Try this healthier technique for stroganoff-style linguine

This healthful version updates the classic beef stroganoff by reducing the amount of sour cream and ditching the meat. Its mix of mushrooms and herbs tossed with linguine (instead of heavier egg noodles) creates a main course that seems indulgent.

I call for a blend of baby portobello, white and oyster mushrooms, but feel free to create your own mushroom mix.

 Read the full story:

Norfolk keeps the memories of former brothers in arms alive

What could Gen. Douglas MacArthur, perhaps the country’s most-decorated war hero, and poet Joyce Kilmer have in common?

I found the answer at the Douglas MacArthur Memorial in downtown Norfolk, Va., a three-building complex in a lovely tree-lined square, consisting of a gleaming new visitors center; the MacArthur Memorial, where the general and his second wife, Jean, are buried; and the Jean MacArthur Research Center. MacArthur chose to be buried here in his mother’s home town, gratefully accepting the city’s offer to create a memorial in the old city hall and courthouse.

Turns out that MacArthur and Kilmer were brothers in arms, serving together in the 42nd Division in World War I. I learned this at the visitors center’s current exhibit — “Under the Rainbow: the 42nd Division and the Great War” — which it’s showing in anticipation of next year’s 100-year anniversary of the start of World War I.

Enough Kumbaya — let’s keep Olympic wrestling

The International Olympic Committee issued a surprise decision on Tuesday to exclude wrestling from the 2020 Olympic Games. For a number of years, the committee has drawn fire for its lack of transparency. With its secret vote to remove one of the original Olympic sports — one that dates back 2 1/2millennia to the first games in ancient Greece — it has added another decision that deserves scrutiny.

Let me suggest that when advocates of wrestling make their case for readmission, the committee pay special attention to the case for this proud sport, which once was a favorite of Abraham Lincoln’s.

Washington Post
Banana-Berry Nut Muffins With Chia Seeds contain key ingredients that make them a complete breakfast.

Kick-start your day with healthy muffins

If you are one of the millions of Americans who skip breakfast, you could be sabotaging your health goals.

Breakfast kick-starts your metabolism and gives your body energy to think more clearly while preventing overeating later in the day. Plus, it provides an excellent opportunity to consume foods high in vitamins, minerals, disease-fighting antioxidants and heart-healthy fiber.

Associated Press file photo
Travelers on Delta Airlines wait for flights in Detroit.

Delta’s SkyMiles now being based more on money than mileage

Like many frequent travelers, Glenn Haussman recently received an email from Delta Air Lines about an “update” to its SkyMiles loyalty program. It was so understated that some passengers didn’t bother to read it. But Haussman did.

“I was not thrilled,” says Haussman, who works for a hotel industry website in New York. “It made me feel less valuable to Delta.”

How can a loyalty program make passengers feel unappreciated? Delta is the first legacy airline to tie the value of its frequent-flier program to the amount of money you spend, as opposed to the number of miles you fly. Beginning Jan. 1, 2014, the airline’s frequent fliers will earn “elite” status, which gives them access to upgrades and other perks, through a combination of miles or segments flown and annual spending on Delta flights.

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