“COOKED: A NATURAL HISTORY OF TRANSFORMATION.” By Michael Pollan. The Penguin Press.
WALTHAM, Mass. — When I was 10, and my family needed to take some kind of snack to parent-teacher conferences, I pulled out the Betty Crocker Cookbook and made croissants from scratch. (They recalled, in taste and appearance, those from a Pillsbury tube.) By 14 I was buying whole pumpkins from farmers down the road to make pumpkin bread, and at 17 I pickled a dozen eggs as a joke for a friend. I have always been, in other words, a cook — and one who wants to do it herself.