I'm standing in front of Berlin's Schoneberg town hall, a sandstone edifice with a soaring clock tower that would look more appropriate on a train station. There's no one around, except for a few office workers hustling down the stairs to the basement cafeteria. By no means does this sleepy scene look like the setting for one of the most iconic speeches in history.But 50 years ago, on June 26, 1963, nearly half a million people gathered in the square in front of this building, which was serving as West Berlin's city hall, and listened to President John F. Kennedy proclaim, "Ich bin ein Berliner." It matters little whether he inadvertently called himself a jelly doughnut. (German grammarians say he didn't.) Those four simple words resonated deeply with West Germans, and overnight Berlin became synonymous with solidarity and freedom.