Knowing the ropes of Las Vegas' Red Rocks

LAS VEGAS -- If climbing is a sin, then Red Rocks may be the most unholy crag of them all.

For some, Red Rocks Canyon Conservation Area sits uncomfortably close to the debauchery of the Las Vegas Strip. For others, the allure of backcountry climbing minutes from a major city makes a nicely balanced vacation.


"Everybody likes coming to Vegas," local climbing guide Mike Ward said. "It's amazing people from everywhere ... all over the world have come to climb here."

Ward, now 53, arrived in Las Vegas circa 1975 at the end of a cross country station wagon delivery for his family. Taking several months and stopping at every climbing crag along the way, he finally landed in Sin City.

In the early days Red Rocks was an untapped wealth of climbing potential for Ward, who spent most of his time doing first ascents on virgin rock. He hasn't kept track of the number of first ascents, but conservatively guesses around 300-400 have been his.

"You just always walked up to a cliff and realized it wasn't done and maybe you'd have a perfect hand crack or a perfect face. There wasn't that many people here, so the bolting issue wasn't in effect," Ward said.

Things have changed since then. On a recent trip to the Black Corridor climbing area, Ward led two clients through a narrow canyon filled to capacity with mostly college students on spring break. The walls were swarming with so many climbers, it seemed only luck kept them from colliding in mid-air as they fell off neighboring routes.

Ward didn't seem surprised by the circus show of climbers dangling around him. The canyon is one of the best places to find shade, with numerous quality sport routes lined up on both sides.

"Yeah, we got some options," he told his clients upon entering the corridor.

"I want to climb one of the routes that you did," one of the clients said.

Ward led his newbie climbers through the chaos to one of his routes named Chrome Dome after his own bald head.

The Black Corridor is the center of the universe for climbing in Red Rocks, but just one small canyon among an area with more than 2,000 routes. Ward calls the Corridor "the outdoor gym" of Las Vegas because the routes here are steep, with jug-handle holds that are reminiscent of those in an indoor gym.

"You guys spend a day in here, you won't be able to open a beer at the end of the day," Ward said.

He opened a climbing gym and gear shop in 1988 at what was the edge of town closest to Red Rocks. Urban sprawl and developments such as the Red Rocks Casino have in recent years pushed town much closer to the area. Swinging into town to pick up a morning latte might be had faster now than a campstove cup of coffee. The nearest grocery store and restaurant are so close it's surely faster to drive for food than to make your own meal.

Red Rocks is one of the top five climbing destinations in America. Many of the climbers are here for the Las Vegas scene, so climbing is a side trip from partying, gambling or visiting retired relatives. The area is known for its climber-friendly, highly-featured rock and the weather is relatively stable compared to other areas like Yosemite.

Outside of the Black Corridor is a world of adventure climbs in the backcountry. Some of the climbs are so long they can take multiple days to complete. The moderate adventure routes in Red Rocks are considered some of the best in the country. Routes like the 16-pitch Epinephrine in Black Velvet Canyon and the nine-pitch Crimson Chysalis are now world-famous.

"Where else can you go and do 16 pitches at the 5.9 level?," Ward said. "If some of this stuff was in Europe, this would be the new Chamonix."

The sandstone is harder than similar rock found in Utah and has numerous cracks with face holds in abundance.

Ward believes Crimson Chrysalis, rated 5.8, is the best moderate multi-pitch in the country. Apparently he is not alone as a daily line of climbers clamber over each other to reach the top. The climb's appeal, like many in the area, is a straight crack for protection and face holds on both sides. This combination can make a sport climber feel like a traditional climber without any crack climbing technique.

The route goes for 1,000 feet straight up the side of a formation called Cloud Tower. The pitches are sustained in difficulty, making this a must-do adventure for many traveling climbers. The climb tops out on a summit with a view of the smoggy Vegas Strip in the distance.

"Look how easy this is. If you can climb a ladder, this is for you," Ogden climber Tim Nguyen said while on the route. "Look at the view. You can see Vegas, not that I want to gamble, but it's unbelievable."

Since the route up Crimson Chrysalis is the same as the rappel route down there are major advantages to being first in line. To access the trailhead climbers must first drive around the scenic loop road that doesn't open until 6 a.m. Cars begin to line up at the gate and once it opens the race is on. The only way to beat the masses for sure is to cheat and hike backward up the loop road in the pre-dawn, at least doubling the hiking distance but guaranteeing first place.

The unlucky last group on the route gets to watch as everyone in front of them rappels over them, dropping ropes and clustering up hanging belay stances in their wake. Despite the challenge, the lines grow and climbing Crimson on a weekend is out of the question. The route takes about 5-8 hours to climb and epics with forced bivouacs are common. The same holds that are a blessing on the climb up are cursed on the way down after catching hold of ropes and leaving climbers stranded. Many say the rock is like Velcro for stuck ropes.

The locals may tell you the easiest way to do the route is in the dark, with the glow of the far-away casinos to help light the way.

Ward sold his gear shop and climbing gym to the employees three years ago. He now works primarily as a guide during the busy season. In late spring, Red Rocks heats up and the crowds of climbers dissipate. Ward flees to Yosemite for cooler temperatures and possibly another ascent of El Capitan.