Get Out There: Better than expected: Family vacation in legendary London
Blake Snow, Special to the Standard-Examiner
The Snow family poses for a photo while on a vacation in London.My daughter picked London for her senior graduation trip. My wife and I tried to talk her out of it. Not because we dislike London. It’s just that there are so many more distinctive, if not scenic, cities we’d return to first.
But it was her choice. So we reluctantly booked our flights, hotel, and several tours, including restaurants. To make things easier in finding accommodations for our large family and limited budget, we turned to what we always do: booking.com. It’s the best place I know to filter lodging by number of guests, location, hotels, Airbnbs, amenities, budget–you name it.
On top of that, the world’s biggest booking engine is a handy way to schedule affordable tours and ground transportation under one connected trip. After doing some research, we decided to stay in Piccadilly Square, the “Times Square of London” and most convenient part of town when it comes to accessing the city’s best sights, sounds, and sensations. Here’s how it went.
Family Matters
London is expensive, and Piccadilly is prime real estate. How did my family afford it? We stayed in a trendy workaround that’s noticeably popular among economizing travelers — a tiny capsule (or pod) hotel called Zedwell that can accommodate anywhere from two to 16 guests per cramped but cozy room. The property is funky and a little bizarre, but I’m glad booking.com recommended it, as it enhanced our ability to see and do a whole lot more for less.
What did we do? We enjoyed several of the city’s world famous and free museums, including the architecturally impressive (but slightly underwhelming) Natural History Museum, the National Art Gallery, and the poorly named but brilliant British Museum, which could be the most impressive human history museum in the world. I was in awe of the ancient artifacts on display — the Rosetta Stone, Greek sculptures, and Egyptian mummies that rival those in Cairo.
We had fun visiting Platform 9¾ in King’s Cross and then felt buyer’s remorse after overpaying for waxy chocolate frogs from the Harry Potter Shop. We wanted to enjoy many of the city’s 3,000 parks, but most were visibly scorched by a European heatwave. We paid homage to rock gods after indulging in an All-American meal at the world’s first Hard Rock Cafe and its accompanying Rock Vault which is filled with memorable, um… memorabilia.
We walked the famous South Bank, Leadenhall Market, and graffiti-covered Leake Street Tunnel. We delighted in the clothing shops of Covent Garden, the towering exteriors of Tower Bridge, and the ornate facade of Westminster Abbey. Although some consider it overrated, I was smitten by the sight and shimmering gold of Big Ben, which attracts almost as many crowds as the Eiffel Tower. I loved hearing its bells.
Although we were let down by the overrated Changing of The Guard, and to lesser extent, Stonehenge (more on that in a future column), my family was deeply moved and utterly overjoyed by My Neighbor Totoro on the West End. It is the best performance I’ve ever seen in a half-life of theater-watching. The set, production, stage, movement, acting, story, sound design, creativity, wardrobe, pacing, music, heart, giant puppetry–everything. It’s like live Japanese anime meets a sensical Alice In Wonderland for adults and children alike. I cried. Twice. Bravo!
Breaking Bread
The rumors are false. British food is much better than expected. And there’s no better place to taste British cuisine — in addition to proven international fare — than in London.
In between landmarks and walking and shopping, my family ate a huge Italian lunch of pizza, calzones, and fresh salads from fast-growing Prezzo. Then we returned for more at Jamie Oliver’s Italian for fresh spaghetti pomodoro, arriabata, and the best molten chocolate chip cookie and lemon cheesecake in the known universe. Fact.
At Wahaca, we found the first Mexican restaurant in the Eastern Hemisphere that was not only good, but inventive. Think grilled halloumi tacos, white bean garlic dip, and sweet potato bravas. We brunched at extra sweet Santa Nata, which serves the best Portuguese egg tarts this side of the English Channel. Fact.
We feasted at Burger & Lobster for its namesake entrees, plus truffle mac and cheese, the creamiest crème brûlée, and one of the best dining atmospheres in the city. Heck, even the City Experiences dinner cruise we took along the timeless Thames served a mushroom cassoulet and citrus chocolate cheesecake worth writing home about. And don’t get me started on succulent Swiss Butter and its lines out the door for giant planks of steak wading in seasoned butter alongside salad, fries, and bread for only £20 (which is noticeably cheap by European standards).
Fact, fact, fact, fact.
But the absolute best meal we shared was, in fact, the most British one: a traditional “Sunday Roast” at The Lighterman with all sorts of meats, cuts, gravies, fixings, garden veggies, berries and cream, chocolate ganache, and those lovable Yorkshire puddings (aka rolls that double as gravy cups). If you splurge on only one London meal, make it this outstanding one.
Making Memories
I will never forget watching an otherwise electric England lose the World Cup semifinal in the heartbreaking final minutes, followed by dominant Spain winning it all a few nights later. Or watching my kids navigate a foreign but familiar city (because English) like I imagine they will in their own hometowns someday.
Or seeing my girls freak out upon visiting a real-life Brandy Melville store. Or people watching in Leicester Square, as I sat next to a bronze statue of Paddington Bear. Or gawking at whatever museum, artifact, grandiose atrium, or chimney topped residential street that has seemingly existed for hundreds of years (because it has).
On our last night in London, I treated my graduate daughter to a massive brownie sundae at the Hard Rock Cafe across the street. While surrounded by lots of visiting school groups, we devoured that sundae. Then half of another. Not so “hard rock” any more. But maybe that’s okay.
I’m really glad she chose London.
Blake Snow contributes to fancy publications and Fortune 500 companies as a bodacious writer-for-hire and seasoned travel journalist to all seven continents. He lives in Provo, Utah with his wife, five children, and one ferocious chihuahua.


